This is re-post of a past blog post, with a few additional comments.
Because styles vary from year to year, I wanted to change up the sleeve of the bishop dress so that it was a bit more contemporary. I redrafted the sleeve to the bishop dress pattern from the bishop pattern that I normally use and put the dress together so that I could smock it while on vacation. I always make my bishop dresses as ready-to-smock. Instructions on how to do that are available in my Etsy shop (kathysheirloomshop). I love having a completed dress when the smocking is finished. I was very happy with the end results!
Smocking on prints is always challenging for me, and this was no exception. I took along several different colors of floss as well as several different smocking plates. In the end, I decided to use Creative Keepsake’s “Mackenzie” design. It is similar to the Children’s Corner “Firelight”, which I’ve always loved on prints and plaid fabrics. I think that the use of the 2 colors is very subtle and compliments the print nicely.
The micro check gingham for the bias at the neck and sleeves adds a little brightness to the fall-ish print. The micro check was also used for covered buttons in the back.
Now, for a few details on how the sleeves were redrafted. You’ll notice that they are not smocked. I wanted less full sleeves, so smocking them wasn’t practical as that would require more fullness than I wanted. To reduce the fullness in the sleeves, I creased the sleeve in several places and put some 1/4″ tucks at the creases and pinned them down as seen on the furthest tuck on the right. After I felt that enough fullness was removed, the new sleeve was redrawn with the top edge drawn as a smooth line from one side to the other.
The next thing to do was to reduce the depth under the arm. The finished sleeve depth under the arm is about 1/2″. Then, the final step was to raise the lower edge of the sleeve by drawing a curve (an upside down “U” shape) from one side seam to the other. I didn’t have a particular formula for this, just an educated guess. This is the new sleeve.
After the new sleeve was created, the dress front, sleeves and back were sewn and the bishop dress pleated as normal. However, when the bias band was attached to the dress, the pleats in the front and back of the dress were kept tightly together while the sleeve pleats were spread out. At this point, the pleating threads could be removed from the sleeves and the dress front and back tied off as needed. The short sleeves were gathered at the bottom and bias band was attached. The bias band for the sleeves was adjusted and made slightly longer (measure your child for accurate measurement) since the different shaped opening requires a little more room than the normal smocked sleeve. The remainder of the dress was constructed.
This was a fun dress to make and turned out so cute and was a big hit!!!
If this is something that you want to try, don’t be afraid to experiment!
Today I thought I’d do a post with some tips specifically for the bishop dress. This is a repeat post as the original post was inadvertently deleted. 🤪 The bishop dress is the easiest to construct, so it is a popular style to make for baby gifts, for all the special holidays, etc. In a busy season, the smocking can be enjoyed and the dress made up relatively quickly.
Around holidays, I always enjoy seeing beautiful bishop dresses that are being made for the little ones. However, as I look at the creations posted on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram, I have noticed a plethora of the dreaded “turtleneck” bishop dresses. If you aren’t familiar with the term, it is used for a bishop dress that has been smocked so tightly that the smocked area sticks up, like a turtleneck.
There are 2 basic methods of smocking a bishop. One method is to smock the bishop with the threads tied off straight, which I will call straight smocking. The other method is to smock the bishop with the bishop blocked, or fanned out, the way that it will be worn. I would put ready to smock bishop dresses as a sub category of this. There are pros and cons to both methods and both methods have avid followers that fiercely defend their method of choice. 🙃 Both methods will be discussed.
First, lets cover basic anatomy. I’m sure that everyone already knows this, but a picture review doesn’t hurt. Any child, doll, preemie, etc. has the same basic shape. Notice the angle of the neck and shoulders. A properly smocked bishop dress should sit at the neckline and fall over the shoulders.
Just as a brief reminder, the smocking should stop at the shoulder line – the same place that a set in sleeve seam would be. If the smocking falls further past the shoulder line, the dress will tend to look frumpy (my opinion).
Unfortunately, when a bishop is smocked too tightly, thus creating the turtleneck, it doesn’t sit that way. The bias band will be higher on the neck and will stand away from the neck. Not wanting to steal anyone’s picture and embarrass anyone, I have done a quick sketch/mock-up. I left the turtleneck style sketch so that the neck/shoulders underneath would be visible.
There’s a couple of problems with the turtleneck bishop. First of all, it will always remain that shape and will not sit properly on the child. Some will attempt to correct the shape by stretching and blocking it after smocking and before construction, which will make it look better for the short-term. Unfortunately as soon as the garment is laundered, it will return to its original shape.
I know many ladies that use the smocking straight method and have been able to create beautiful garments that lay perfectly once the pleating threads are removed. However, for many, this isn’t the case. Many that favor the straight smocking method will state that without a doubt, if a bishop plate is chosen for the smocking design, when the pleating threads come out, the dress will automatically fan out as it should. I disagree with that. All of the smocked “turtleneck” bishops that I’ve seen have been smocked with a smocking design designated as a bishop design. The problem lies with the tension – it is too tight.
The straight method is definitely easier to smock. However, just like with the blocked method, the tension on the stitches needs to be looser as you stitch the lower rows. If they are smocked equally as tight as the upper rows, the turtleneck is bound to happen. There’s no way that smocking a dense bishop design will end up well if the tension doesn’t relax as the lower rows are smocked. This takes practice. If you struggle with the turtleneck effect, it may be helpful to tie the straight bishop off at a longer length and smock the lower rows first and then tighten up the pleating threads as the top of the bishop is smocked. Regardless of how you choose to approach this, the tension has to be looser on the bottom rows to avoid the turtleneck situation.
The second method is to block the bishop, which just means that it is fanned out (sometimes over a blocking guide or smocking pillow) in the shape that it will be worn. Some will also starch it at this point. Blocking guides and starching seem to be quite time-consuming to me and I have never felt that this is necessary, but it certainly won’t hurt .
I find that the easiest way to block is to use a piece of paper as a guide and fan the bishop out around the paper. This is the method that I always use. It’s convenient, no special tools are needed, etc. and I can do this wherever I happen to be – I can always find a piece of paper. LOL!
If you prefer to use a guide or one of the smocking pillows that are available, that is certainly an option. However, based on the hundreds of bishops that I’ve made over the years, I don’t really feel that it is necessary. By the time that the band is attached to the top of the bishop dress, the pleats are so tightly packed at the neckline that it really doesn’t make a difference (again, my opinion).
Smocking while using the block method (or smocking a ready to smock garment) is a little more difficult. The pleats at the neckline are very tight and there is more space between pleats at the lower edge, which requires thoughtful tension as you smock. I always make my bishops as ready to smock because it gives the advantage of getting the first row of smocking to sit perfectly next to the neckband. That said, it can be challenging smocking all of the really tight pleats. But notice how close and even that first row of smocking can be!
It is important that if you are smocking using the blocking method that you don’t habitually squish the pleats together as you smock. It’s easy to do this without even realizing it, but it defeats the process of learning to loosen tension as you smock the lower rows.
My preferred method is to make up the bishop dress or romper as a ready-to-smock garment ( method 2). I also like to have 2 buttons on the back. I have found that buttons stay fastened while snaps do not. I also don’t like the buttons extending all the way down the back. In my mind, they may not be comfortable and the lower buttonholes can easily get torn with wear and tear.
It is easy to adapt any pattern to make the 2 buttons. I do sell instructions on this method in my Etsy shop (kathysheirloomshop) along with many other patterns.
Whatever method you choose to use, be mindful of tension – it matters.
I thought I’d offer a free smocking plate to encourage you to do some relaxing smocking over the upcoming holiday season. Click on the link below to download the Funky Flower smocking design.
This is a PDF download. I’ve used this to make a sweet bishop dress in the past.
The graph doesn’t show the detail of the smocking design, but after the smocking was complete, the flower and flower center were outlined with the outline stitch and 2 strands of floss and a French knot was stitched with 4 strands in each flower petal.
I hope that this has been helpful and will allow for everyone to be successful with their bishop smocking designs! I welcome any comments. Perhaps others will chime in with comments that help them achieve successful bishops!
I have been busy the last month working on a new pattern. I have finally finished the pattern and got it listed in my Etsy shop. The pattern is a vintage style apron dress.
Isn’t this the sweetest dress!!! I created this from combining the ideas from 2 different vintage apron dress patterns that I’ve saved pictures of and am very happy with the end results.
I always get so much enjoyment from creating these patterns! The embroidery on this yellow dress actually is from a vintage pattern of mine and is included with the pattern. Obviously, any embroidery would be beautiful. On the white dress pictured first, I did a variation of this, using bullion roses instead of the lazy daisy flowers.
In the pattern, I offer 3 different neckline variations – square neckline, round neckline and a sweetheart neckline. My personal favorite is the square, but I do like the others as well.
On most of the samples that I made, I used French Val laces and pin stitched the lace to the dresses. However, when I got to the size 4, I wanted to try something different. For that dress, I used a very lightweight poly/cotton piqué fabric that I purchased in Prague a few years ago. I combined it with Swiss trims and loved how it turned out. It’s a little more casual than the other heirloom versions that I had done.
Don’t you love it with the Swiss trims!!! So very summery!!! I even added 2 pockets to this dress, which I then included in the pattern.
I can see this dress in so many different variations – fabrics, trims, etc. I used larger tucks for this dress, though I’m not sure that they show up well in the picture.
The flat front version is also so pretty! I can see this with all kinds of embellishment – wouldn’t a monogram be perfect!!! A shadow work monogram would be gorgeous! I did a simple lace shaping on the front of the one that I made. I’m still considering adding some embroidery. This dress features the sweetheart neckline!
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Maybe you have someone that would look so sweet in this dress!!! I have begun a sew-along of the dress on my YouTube channel. Please consider joining the fun! I am looking forward to seeing many beautiful versions of this sweet dress!!!
I hope the new year has included some enjoyable stitching for you!!!
I sew quite frequently for preemie babies and because of that, I’ve created a number of preemie patterns which I sell in my Etsy shop (Kathysheirloomshop). You can click on the shop name and it will take you to my shop.
Recently I was contacted and asked about even smaller size preemie daygowns. I currently have my Prince/Princess Preemie Pattern available for a 4 – 5 lb. preemie.
By adding length to this top (I believe I added 8″ to the bottom of the 4 – 5 lb. size), it becomes a daygown rather than a diaper shirt.
The little bit of hand embroidery adds such a sweet touch to the gown and bonnet!
The person that had contacted me felt that a gown smaller than the 4 – 5 lb. size might be needed. Challenge accepted! LOL! I worked at making a smaller size pattern. I ended up with a 3 – 4 lb. size pattern. I did a test sew of the pattern and it worked out just as I expected. However, because the diaper shirt/gown is completely lined, the sleeves are sewn in last, meaning “in the round”. Sewing the sleeves into this tiny armhole opening was quite the challenge!!! I could only stitch about 5 – 6 stitches, then would have to reposition and repeat. 😱 I also ended up hand basting the sleeve into the armhole opening. It was just to fiddly to have to deal with pins while trying to stitch the sleeve in. 😳
I tried it on a 15″ baby doll “model”. This does make a sweet doll pattern as well!
Because of the difficulty/challenge to sew in the sleeves into the tiny armholes, I have decided to offer this as a free download. I was not prepared for the multitude of questions from buyers regarding the sleeve stitching! You cannot imagine how many messages I get as a seller!!! LOL! So, be aware, the tiny sleeves ARE a challenge, but they can be sewn with a LOT of patience!!!
The download is ONLY the pattern pieces, NO INSTRUCTIONS for sewing are included. If you have purchased the preemie pattern or the pattern for sizes NB – 12 mo., you can follow those instructions. If you want/need sewing instructions and have not purchased one of the patterns, you will need to purchase one of them in order to have sewing instructions.
If you want the diaper shirt to be daygown length, add 6″ to the bottom of the shirt.
As always, I still recommend soft fabrics (batiste, lawn, etc.) and if you choose to use a print, make sure it is a tiny print so that it doesn’t overwhelm the baby (or doll).
I’ve sadly neglected my blog. That said, I have been busy sewing, designing and such. I hope to do a better job posting in this year to come. 😊
Today I was contacted by someone that was going to make my Annalise top and she wanted to find the heart design that she had seen somewhere – probably Pinterest. It turns out that this was something that I designed MANY years ago when I used to make and sell custom garments on Ebay.
I designed the heart smocking to match the fabric on the pants, which was a crooked heart. Isn’t she the cutest model!!! I’m sure that she’s in college by now!
I had to do a bit of hunting to find the design. Thankfully I had saved the pencil graph of the heart. With that, as well as the pictures to go on, I graphed out the heart design on the computer and wanted to offer it to my followers so that it can be smocked on a Valentine outfit for this year!!! I have graphed out the smocking design that fits perfectly on the Annalise top (available in my Etsy shop – just click on the name and it will bring you there) as well as offering it in a regular yoke design.
This is a relatively simple smocking design and suitable for someone that has mastered reading the picture smocking graphs
hope that you will enjoy making a cute outfit using one of these smocking designs! The single design is perfect for a small area to smock while the expanded version will work well on any yoke dress!
May God bless you and keep you in this New Year! Happy stitching!!!
A beautiful hemline is a lovely way to compliment a bodice – smocked, embroidered, tucked, etc. There are so many ways to embellish a hem. Some are more time consuming and difficult, others are quicker and easier (relatively speaking). This post will address some of the many options of interest to anyone that enjoys heirloom sewing. Hopefully it will inspire some creative thinking for your next sewing project!
A smocked bishop dress is deserving of a beautiful hem treatment. This hem was stitched with a pin-stitch, done by hand and then embroidery was added above the hem. While I nearly always will choose a machine method of hem finishes, I do love hand-work and wanted to test the waters with a hand, pin-stitch. With a small sized bishop dress, this didn’t take too long. This is a cost effective treatment and only requires a lightweight thread for the pin-stitch. Any book on heirloom techniques will include instructions for this stitch.
For reference, this dress was made from Imperial batiste. The smocking design is a variation of Ellen McCarn’s “Cary Anne” smocking plate – I made a few changes. Contrary to the opinion of many heirloom stitchers, it IS possible to do a hand pin-stitch on a poly/cotton fabric. Because of the easy care of this fabric, this dress is likely to get more wear than one that requires special laundering as well as ironing.
As mentioned, my “go-to” methods are almost always a machine method and I love including color in the hem and bodice of a dress.
Scalloped hems always look beautiful!!! Of course, they are more work and will take more time. The finished result is always worth the extra effort! This dress has a scalloped, contrast hem that is machine pin-stitched. Machine pin-stitching also takes time, but goes much more quickly than doing it by hand. Pintucks and embroidery above the hem elevate the design, making it even more beautiful. Pintucks are an easy way to embellish a hem and no additional cost is incurred!
This pattern is available in my Etsy shop.. The fabric for this dress is satin batiste – both the white and the yellow fabric. It is dreamy to work with and creates a keepsake heirloom.
This dress is similar to the yellow/white dress above, but a little quicker to complete. This is a Madeira hem in a contrast color that is machine pin-stitched to the skirt. It has hand embroidered shadow work above the hem – both of these elements are repeated in the bodice.
This dress is made from Imperial batiste for the easy-care that the fabric offers. Because of that, it was worn often, washed frequently and still looks beautiful. As you can see, the machine pin-stitching can also be done effectively on a poly/cotton blend. The pattern and instructions for this dress is available in my Etsy shop.
This is another example of a contrast hem – a shadow Madeira hem, done by machine. The technique for this hem is a bit different. A heavy contrast fabric (hot pink) is used underneath the batiste skirt to shadow through as a pastel pink. This method is much quicker and easier than the previous 2 dresses shown and only requires a pintuck needle and foot and a wing needle. The dress features hand embroidery above the hem. The contrast fabric and embroidery are repeated on the dress bodice.
For an heirloom look with less hours invested, this style will fit the bill. This dress is also made from Imperial batiste, so another easy care dress that should get worn frequently. The pattern is available in my Etsy shop.
Shown below is the same hem technique done with a simple scallop design and with silk ribbon embroidery at the peaks. It is such a versatile technique!
This is yet another dress using the same technique.
Swiss batiste blue dress with lace.
Satin batiste lace dress with lace overlay bodice, sleeves and a lace scalloped hem.
Pima cotton lawn dress with lace bodice and hem.
It goes without saying that you can never go wrong with a traditional heirloom dress and LOTS of lace! Each of these examples show how the lace hem is a repeat of the lace bodice.
The blue dress is a basic yoke dress using heirloom techniques to add lace. The white dress is a basic yoke dress, smocked, and with heirloom techniques to add a lace overlay bodice, lace sleeves and a scalloped lace hem. This dress was featured in Sew Beautiful magazine several years ago. The pink dress is a pattern available in my Etsy shop.
Sometimes a single lace edging is sufficient as a hem. This adds a touch of elegance without taking away from the dress bodice embroidery and the lace sleeves. This vintage inspired dress pattern is available in my Etsy shop.
To create an heirloom dress with lots of appeal and a little less expense, ribbon can be used in the hem and bodice paired with lace for a stunning dress. This is a great way to learn and use heirloom techniques without breaking the bank! These dresses are made of Swiss batiste, ribbon and lace. It does not require a lot of fabric and could also be made with Imperial batiste if easy care and savings is a factor.
With Easter fast approaching, consider a beautiful hem to compliment whatever you might be creating for someone special!!! You can’t go wrong!
