Monthly Archives: February 2021

Wee Care Sew-Along 3

This segment of the sew-along will cover putting on the bias band, tying off for smocking and then designing the scallop hem design.

Before attaching the bias band, finish the backs of the gowns. It is recommended that you turn in a narrow hem that is approximately 1/4″ finished – wide enough to sew a snap onto. Next, count pleats between the front armhole seams to find the center of the gown and mark the center with a blue wash-out marker.

Cut bias band 1-1/8″ wide and about 1-1/2″ longer than needed. Mark the band at each end with the finished neckband size and also mark the middle of the band.

With right side facing up, tie a knot in the top 2 pleating threads. Pull the knot to the fabric. Pin the bias band (right sides together) at each end and at the center.

Sew the bias band to the gown with a basting stitch (see video). The stitching line should be between the top 2 pleating threads. If it needs any adjusting, fix and re-baste. Then sew on top of the basting thread with a 2.0 stitch length. Stitch again a scant 1/4″ away from the first stitching line. Cut away excess fabric at the second stitching line.

Fold the bias band to finish the neckline (see video), trimming the bias band if needed.

To create the scalloped hem, measure across the width of the gown at the hem. Cut a length of freezer paper the same length as the width of the gown hem. The length can then be cut into 6″ wide strips so that you can practice with 3 strips of freezer paper as you design the hem.

Fold the freezer paper in half to find the center, then fold in half again – those folds represent the side seam of the gown. Watch the video to see how simple it is to create pretty scallops.

Link to video:

Stay tuned for the next lesson, which will be the Madeira hem application. This can be done with a sewing machine that has a pin-stitch or a second method that doesn’t require a pin-stitch will also be shown – that one requires a double hem-stitch needle. Be sure to have your supplies ready for this segment. You will need a blue wash-out marker, water soluble thread, water soluble stabilizer, #110 needle, #80 weight thread, and the kindergarten scissors (optional, but very helpful).

Water soluble thread Vanish Lite

Water soluble stabilizer Sulky Fabri-Solvy

Blue Wash-out Marker

Freezer Paper

Kindergarten scissors

#110 Schmetz needle

Schmetz double wing needle (if your machine doesn’t have a pin-stitch)

Long tweezers

Point Pusher with Ball End

80 weight thread – Aurifil or Madeira Cotona

60 weight mettler thread

Schmetz #70 microtex needle

Sulky Fabri-Solvy or other water soluble stabilizer

Double Hemstitch needle (for technique if you don’t have a pin-stitch on your machine)

Enjoy putting on the bias band and designing your unique hem scallop!!!


Disclosure: The recommended products contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting me when you shop! These are my opinions and are not representative of the companies that create these products. These are the products I use and have gotten great results with. I would never recommend poor quality products.

Wee Care Sew-Along, Part 2

After downloading the pattern, follow the instructions and cut out the gown fabric/rectangle as directed. Fold the rectangle in half, and then in half again in order to cut out the armhole curve.

The armhole curve has TWO placement lines. For the gown that has NO SIDE SEAMS, use the inside line!!! Place this line on the fold and cut around the armhole.

Next cut the sleeve rectangles. If you plan to use the boy’s pleated sleeve pattern, add 1″ to the depth of the rectangle. Using the same armhole curve, cut the sleeve armhole on the OUTSIDE placement line.

Decide on what sleeve treatment will be used. For a smocked sleeve, pleat the sleeves with the desired number of rows (I usually pleat 5 half spaces, 7 for a NB) and be sure to leave the pleating threads long enough to flatten the sleeves out in order to finish the lower edge of the sleeve with a narrow rolled hem or with lace.

Before attaching lace, it is best to starch the lace. For this, use starch, not Ellen’s Best Press. Ellen’s Best Press is a starch alternative, not starch – you won’t get the same crisp results with it as you will with real starch. I use Faultless Heave Spray Starch (link below). It is also available at grocery stores, WalMart, etc.

Attach lace or hem the sleeve bottom. If you need a refresher on how to attach lace, I do have an e-book available on my Etsy site.

For a boy’s pleated sleeve, follow the instructions on the file below (click on the blue PDF) to download the file. This includes instructions for all sizes. Read before cutting out and making the sleeve!!!

Stitch the underarm seam allowance with a TINY 1/4″ SEAM. I have a Youtube video on how to do this:

With the sleeves completed, stitch the sleeve into the armhole. If you have cut & stitched accurately, the sleeve will fit into the armhole perfectly.

Of course, all of the instructions and demonstrations can be seen on my YouTube channel:

This is a longer video, so if you already know how to attach lace, roll & whip, etc., you can fast forward through those parts! 😊 I just wanted to make sure that someone new that wanted to try this would have enough information to apply lace correctly.

You are ready to pleat at this point. Please follow the pleating video if you would like to see how I pleated the gown. Pleat with the number of rows recommended or desired.

Stay tuned for the hem instructions!!!

Links for some of the additional supplies I used – you may already own these:

Rotary cutter

Press and Cut Board

Ruler with Grid


Keep on stitching!!!! If you have questions, please ask and I’ll answer them here.


Disclosure: The recommended products contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting me when you shop – it gives me a little bit back for my time producing these videos! These are my opinions and are not representative of the companies that create these products. These are the products I use and have gotten great results with. I would never recommend poor quality products.

Wee Care Gown Sew-Along

I’m going to do a SAGA Wee Care gown sew-along for all those that wish to participate. The Wee Care gowns are the tiny bishop gowns used at the hospitals as infant demise gowns. It’s a beautiful expression of love and caring for the precious little ones that don’t make it and the families are so appreciative. I make so many of these each year, and I thought it would be a nice way to share some of my tips and techniques.

I will be sharing how I put together this gown. I use the SAGA Wee Care gown pattern by Nancy Newell and I cut the gown out using the NO side seam method.

Download and print your pattern, gather your supplies and be sure to watch the YouTube video.

I’m providing links to the supplies that I use and recommend, though feel free to substitute if you have different preferences. Just click on the blue words and it will take you to the website.

Gingher Pocket (Kindergarten) Scissors

Mettler 60 wt. thread

Madeira Cotona or Aurafil 80 wt. thread

Point Pusher with Ball End

Imperial Batiste

Schmetz 70 Microtex Needle

Schmetz 110 Jeans Needle

Schmetz Double Hemstitch Needle

Long Tweezers

Sulky Fabri-Solvy

Water Soluble thread

I will be sharing videos of how to insert the sleeves, sew the bias band on as well as how to create an easy Madeira hem – with or without hemstitching. I particularly like this hem treatment to embellish a boy’s gown. Of course, the same techniques can be used on another project – Easter dresses, tea towels, quilts, etc. Lots of options! So, even if you aren’t creating a Wee Care gown, learn the technique and use it elsewhere. Of course, the tiny gowns are a great way to practice and perfect different techniques while blessing a family.

Join the fun and enjoy the process! Hopefully you’ll learn something new or different!

Keep on stitching!


Disclosure: The recommended products contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting me when you shop! These are my opinions and are not representative of the companies that create these products. These are the products I use and have gotten great results with. I would never recommend poor quality products.

Tiny Gowns and YouTube

This past week I’ve completed several tiny gown sets that will be donated to Caleb Ministry. This is such a wonderful ministry to those that have lost their babies. Even if you don’t sew, you can support this ministry through your financial gifts. I pray for the families that will receive these sets and that God will bring comfort in such a time of sadness.

Each set that I make consists of a gown, cap/bonnet, flannel blanket & a handkerchief.

This set uses the smocked pattern from SAGA. The cross design is from Sonia Showalter Designs and it stitches out beautifully every time, as do all of her embroidery designs. I don’t remember where the tiny footprints come from.

These sets use the pattern from Caleb ministry. Again, the embroidery designs are from Sonia Showalter Designs.

I especially enjoy making the little girl sets – I guess I love lace and pink! This is the SAGA pattern for the gown. The bonnet pattern is from Laurie Anderson and stitches up quickly. Again, the embroidery design is from Sonia Showalter (link with the first picture).

Again, this gown uses the SAGA pattern. This is one of my favorite embroidery designs from Sonia Showalter – what a precious Bible verse and so appropriate.

In addition to making all these sets, I have been working to learn how to make video tutorials. What a learning curve this has been! I’m certainly no expert, but I have learned a few things and have MANY more to learn. With the video, I also had to learn how to set up a YouTube channel. This morning I uploaded my first tutorial – Tiny French Seams tutorial. I hope to continue this learning adventure and will post more tutorials as I’m able to. Hopefully each will improve as I learn more.

So, that’s how I’ve been spending my time these cold and wet winter days! I hope you’ve enjoyed some special stitching as well.

Keep on stitching……


MICRO-PREEMIE BUNTING PATTERN – for under 1 lb. babies

Today as I worked on a Wee Care gown, I realized that the micro-preemie bunting pattern and instructions that I’d previously shared was one that was lost. Therefore, I’m sharing it again so that anyone wanting to make these and donate to their local hospitals has access to the pattern.

This sweet little bunting has been designed as a burial bunting for micro preemie babies. It stitches up quickly and uses minimal amounts of fabric. Quilting the fabric gives it the necessary body. Small bits of lace or trim can be used for embellishment if desired. A little hand or machine embroidery can be done very quickly.

In the past, I used one of the bunting patterns that was shared online. While I was happy with the finished bunting, it was far too complicated (my opinion).

This bunting is designed to ensure that the baby is securely wrapped. It can be completed in a very short time and it is done completely by machine.

Fabric for the inside of the bunting should be flannel.  A variety of fabrics can be used for the outside fabric.  If pre-quilted fabric is used it eliminates the need to quilt the fabric.  Quilting cottons, broadcloth, satin, lightweight fleece, etc. all work well for the outside fabric of the bunting.

Small scraps of trims or lace can be used to decorate the front flaps of the bunting.  These would include ribbons, soutache braid, Swiss eyelet lace, Val lace, rickrack, etc.


  • 12″ x 15″ piece of fashion fabric
  • 12″ x 15″ piece of thin cotton batting *
  • 12″ x 15″ piece of batiste
  • 12″ x 15″ piece of flannel (lining)
  • 24″ of 1/4″ or 1/8″ ribbon
  • 12″ of lace or trim (optional)
  • thread
  • blue wash-out marker
  • ruler with 1″ grid marks

*alternately, 3 – 4 layers of flannel can be used instead of batting


Open the PDF pattern file in Adobe reader on a laptop or desktop computer.  Print the pattern. Ensure that the pattern has been printed to the correct size by checking the 1” box.  Printing should be done from a computer, not a phone or tablet. Cut out the 2 pattern pieces and tape together, matching the notch.  Printing 2 copies of the pattern and taping both together down the center will give the full pattern piece, which is helpful for aligning patterns with designs that need to be centered.

To mark the fashion fabric for quilting, fold the fabric in half lengthwise and finger crease.  Open the fabric up.  With a blue wash out marker, draw a line along the crease.  Fold the fashion fabric in half across the width and crease.  Open the fabric up and using a blue wash out marker, draw a line along the crease.  Using a ruler with a grid, mark additional lines at 1” intervals along both the length and the width of the fabric.

Place batiste with wrong side facing up.  Place the batting on top of the batiste, matching all cut edges and then place the fashion fabric, right side up, on top of the batting, aligning all cut edges.  Pin to secure.  Starting at the center line of the 15” L, stitch along the line from top to bottom.  Moving out from the center line, stitch remaining lines until all the lines have been stitched along the 15” length.  Repeat for the process for the 12” width to complete the quilting of the fashion fabric.  (For interest, the grid can also be stitched at 45º angles.)

Cut out the bunting pattern from the quilted fabric and another bunting from the flannel.  It works very well to print 2 copies of the pattern and tape them together in order to work with the full size pattern.

Tip – the pattern can be traced onto the quilted fabric and then straight stitch along the drawn line. This secures the 3 layers together and is easier to work with. Cut out the shape just outside the stitched lines.

Cut straight across the top of the bunting, leaving the “dip” section in the front uncut.

With a blue wash-out marker, mark the front “dip” section. This will be the dart that makes up the shape for the bunting hood. It is easier to sew the dart in first and then trim away the excess fabric. Mark the dot below the dip as well as the placement lines for the ribbons with a blue wash-out marker.

With right sides together, stitch the dart/seam for the hood of the bunting, stopping at the circle.  Repeat for flannel.  Trim away the excess fabric inside the dart. Do any embellishments desired at this point.

Cut the ribbons into 6” lengths and pin the ribbons to the quilted fabric at the placement lines.

With right sides together, pin the flannel to the quilted fabric all around the outside edges.  Stitch around the entire bunting, leaving a 2” opening between one set of ribbons. 

Trim seam allowance a little, clip curves and clip the corners at an angle, stopping before reaching the stitching line.

Pull bunting through the opening to get it right side out. Press. Edge-stitch around the entire bunting, closing up the 2” opening.

Remove blue wash out marker by spritzing or soaking in cold water for 5 minutes.

Fold up lower section, bring outside sections together and tie the ribbons into a bow.

These are so quick to make, it’s easy to finish several of them in a very short time. Be creative with little bits of trim.

I hope that this will inspire you to use up some of your smaller pieces of pretty fabric and create a sweet bunting! I am including the PDF file for the pattern for your use. Click on the link below to download.

Keep on stitching…….



Fabric Storage Boxes

I keep seeing pictures of these cute, but small, storage boxes made from fabric. I love the idea of those, but the small size was not appealing to me. Maybe I have too much stuff that larger boxes have more appeal!!!

Well, with Valentine’s day coming up, I decided I’d try some of these boxes for the grandkids and then fill them with a few goodies. After perusing the internet for tutorials, and reading many – some good, some tragic – I moved forward and made the first one. Of course, I was choosing elements from different techniques that I read about and then doing my own thing, particularly with the sizing and turn down cuff. As you might imagine, I had a few challenges before getting it down just right. I’m very happy with the finished boxes!

Each of the boxes are made with plastic canvas inserts in all 4 sides, slipped between the outer fabric and the lining fabric in a channel created by stitching down the edges. I used fusible fleece for the outer layer of fabric and then used iron-on interfacing for the lining fabric. A removable bottom insert with the plastic canvas sits inside each of the baskets as well. The boxes measure 8.5″ x 11″ x 9″ tall, so they will fit lots of treasures! The turn down cuffs are different sizes as I experimented with different sizes as each box was made.

I love the frame and font on this basket!!! That said, it did take an hour to stitch out! It is called the Flourish frame from Embroitique. The font is also from Embroitique, though I don’t remember what it is called. Both stitched out beautifully, as her designs always do!

Ignore the faint chalk lines in Liam’s basket – they will disappear eventually. This basket is made with a heavy piqué for the outer layer. I’ve been using what I have in my “resource center” as much as possible and this was the perfect color for his superhero box. I have no clue where his design comes from – I’ve had it for more years than I can remember. Because this was the first box made, and with numerous mistakes during the process, I chose to stitch this design out as a patch and glue on afterwards. So thankful that it was done this way as otherwise I would have needed to trash the first attempt at the box and start over. LOL!

By the time I got to the 3rd box, I realized that if I added piping to the upper edge, the top-stitching would be much easier and the look a bit cleaner. That was a good choice! This font and frame are also from Embroitique. The frame is the Miller frame, and again, I don’t remember the name of the font. I guess I should write these down as I create the embroidery design to stitch, but I never remember to do that! The off-grain print on Ella’s and Livvy’s boxes bothers me, but I prefer to keep the fabric on grain when sewing rather than keep the design straight. How I wish designs were printed on grain!

Eva’s box was the last to complete and as you might expect, I got better with each one. The embroidery frame and front for hers are also from Embroitique. The frame is the Bowman frame, again, with a font that I cannot remember. So sorry about that! However, you can choose any front from Embroitique and it will stitch out beautifully! The cuff on this box is 2″, and the size that I prefer – now that I’ve done several of these! 🤣

The boxes are filled with some goodies and ready to deliver! Now, to decide what my next sewing project will be……

I do hope that you are able to keep busy and creative these days while staying at home and safe! Keep on stitching!!!