Summer Sewing School – aka Grandma Camp!

Last week we did a week of sewing camp. It was so much fun!!! The 3 granddaughter’s (ages 9, 9 & 12) did sewing camp with me and our grandson (age 7) did camp with grandpa. I hope that we created some fun memories!!!

The girls loved sewing and all 3 of them completed all 5 projects in my Girls Can Sew curriculum.

Prior to camp, I let each of the girls choose fabrics for their projects from my “resource center”. 🤣 It’s so nice to have everything readily available for whatever might be needed!!! That’s my story and I’m sticking to it!

Project #1 was a pillowcase. We made it with the burrito method. 2 of the girls had already made a pillowcase in previous years, but this year was different in that I was teaching them how to read and follow the instructions. They did a great job of that with the pillowcase.

Why the headbands of fabric? Well, they are sewing ninjas!!!

At the finish of the project, we had “free sew” – which involved sewing together pre-cut squares. I think that this part of each day was something that they enjoyed most!!!

Day 2 of camp involved making a decorative throw pillow. They had such fun deliberating over what trims to use for their pillows. In this class, they learned how to do LOTS of measuring and they also learned to sew a zipper (zip off pillow cover).

They loved the finished pillows!

The 3rd project was a twirl skirt. The skirt had an elastic casing and was a yoke with a gathered tier. Gathering was a new skill. They weren’t too sure about this! LOL! Let’s just say that it wasn’t their favorite! But, they persevered and all ended up with a cute skirt.

Of course, “free sew” continued at the end of each day! I’m sure glad that I had plenty of squares for them to work with!!! They were finishing up some small quilts by day 3.

Day 4 was a tote bag, interfaced & lined. With each project, new skills were introduced. This project involved using pattern pieces, placing the pattern pieces on grain and accurate cutting. Prior to this, all of the projects had been measure and tear.

As you can see, they all ended up with cute tote bags!!! Each of them also chose to add a trim to the seam, which added cuteness to the tote bags!

Our last project was a patchwork pouch. This was much more involved. They also used pattern pieces for this and had to create their own “fabric” with patchwork. They had lots of practice with piecing during “free sew”, which made them very successful with their patchwork pouches!!!

Notice how beautifully matched those pieced corners are!!!

Because this bag is lined AND has a zipper, it was a bit trickier. Once again, they proved to not be quitters, patiently waiting for help when needed, and they all loved their finished pouches.

After class was over, I decided that for new seamstresses, it might be helpful to have a visual aid (other than my painter’s tape) for their seam allowance alignment. Each sewing machine had a slightly different bed and markings. We did play “musical machines” – meaning that each of the girls sat at a different machine each day to see some of the little differences. I have created a grid with seam markings on it and am offering it as a free download for anyone else wanting to help new seamstresses with their seam allowances. (we also use this in the refugee sewing class!)

You can download this by clicking on the blue words above. I would recommend cutting the page into strips and applying one strip in front of the sewing machine foot, on the bed of the machine, and another on the back of the sewing machine foot. Having the different colors will also make it easy for the student to see and follow a particular line. This can be attached with clear packing tape. Alternately, it can be printed on sticky back paper (think stickers), cut apart and applied that was as well. I hope you’ll find this helpful if you have budding seamstresses that you will be helping learn to sew.

Of course, I cannot forget to mention grandpa camp! The boys had fun as well. 🥰

Hiking, learning how to safely shoot a gun at the range & building a birdhouse were on the agenda for them! It was all a huge success!!!

Liam learned how to use many power tools (with help, of course!) and loved choosing his bright green paint to finish it off.

That’s what has been going on this summer! I hope you’re enjoying a wonderful summer as well, and hopefully staying cool!!!

Updating A Favorite Pattern

6 years ago I started my Etsy shop. I had made preemie outfits for a friend’s grandbabies (quadruplets) and had so many requests for the pattern that I decided to take the dive and sell that pattern and called it Prince/Princess Diaper Set. One pattern led to more, the second pattern being infant sizes of the same pattern.

Prince/Princess Diaper Set Pattern

Over the last 6 years, I’ve had requests (quite regularly) to extend the sizes up to 24 mo. I am happy to say that I’ve finally finished that task and have combined the extended sizes with both the Preemie pattern as well as the infant sizes previously offered. The newly revised pattern is still called Prince/Princess Diaper Set & Daygown and the sizes are Preemie (4 – 5 lb.) – 24 mo.

The instructions to make the top into a daygown are also included. I love the daygown length!

It was no small feat to update this pattern. When I created the first PDF pattern, I had very little knowledge on how to do it easily. It took a few years and a lot of research to get it right. Whew! But, to go back to the old files and turn them into new ones was quite the task. I had to do that before working on the larger sizes.

Of course, with the updated patterns, I felt I should also update the directions. While they are pretty much the same, I used a better format to create the instructions. So, overall, the entire pattern is improved! I hope my future customers will enjoy it!

On another note – I’ve also had requests to make my Sweet Cheeks smocked diaper cover in adult sizes. 😳 No worries – that won’t be happening. LOL! Summertime is the perfect time for these to be made and worn!!!

That’s the latest and the greatest from my design room!

Happy stitching this summer!!!


Lots of Stitching

I don’t know where the time has gone!!! I continue to stay busy sewing as well as creating new patterns. I’ve also been busy making lots of new Wee Care gown samples that I will use as samples in an upcoming workshop.

Since my last post, I’ve added 2 new patterns to my Etsy shop. The first one I just adore for summertime! It makes a gorgeous outfit for beach pictures, weddings, etc. It is perfect for the little ones, boy or girl, as well as older girls.

For little ones, bloomers can be used instead of a skirt, however, I loved the idea of creating both the bloomers as well as the skirt for a little girl!

What a great way to have options!!! The pattern is called Button-on Bib, Bloomers & Sundress.

The most recent pattern is my City Frock Dress/Tunic pattern. This is another fabulous pattern for summer sewing! Of course, it’s also suitable for cooler weather with a blouse or t-shirt underneath.

All the girls were a big fan of the large pockets! I had fun making these dresses & tunics!

Of course, I continue to make my Wee Care sets for Caleb Ministry. I have completed quite a few that I’ll be using as samples for an upcoming workshop. I did a variety of different hem treatments for the gowns.

The beautiful crocheted edging on this blanket and the next one was done by another friend, Maribeth, and sent to me. It almost makes me want to learn to crochet again!

Traveling up to Michigan to visit with my parents gave me plenty of time to get the gowns smocked! It’s a really long drive! I made sure that I had several gowns ready to smock before the trip!

For the boy gowns, I added a pleated sleeve version that I’m particularly fond of. Several years ago, another smocking friend of mine, Beth, made a gown with a pleated sleeve. She generously shared the instructions with our local guild. As the years progressed, I worked with the new Wee Care chair for the guild and we tweaked the instructions a bit more to end up with a sleeve that I do like for all the various sizes from the under 1 lb. size to a NB size. I have had requests for these instructions, so I’m adding them here for you to download. All the sizes are included in the PDF file.

I hope that these will be helpful to others that make these special gowns. I wish they weren’t needed, but if they can provide one less thing for bereaved parents to worry about, I’ll continue to make them.

I hope you’re having a fabulous spring, stitching beautiful things and getting ready for the summer months!!! Keep on stitching!!!


February – New Month, New Pattern

I have been busy the last month working on a new pattern. I have finally finished the pattern and got it listed in my Etsy shop. The pattern is a vintage style apron dress.

Isn’t this the sweetest dress!!! I created this from combining the ideas from 2 different vintage apron dress patterns that I’ve saved pictures of and am very happy with the end results.

I always get so much enjoyment from creating these patterns! The embroidery on this yellow dress actually is from a vintage pattern of mine and is included with the pattern. Obviously, any embroidery would be beautiful. On the white dress pictured first, I did a variation of this, using bullion roses instead of the lazy daisy flowers.

In the pattern, I offer 3 different neckline variations – square neckline, round neckline and a sweetheart neckline. My personal favorite is the square, but I do like the others as well.

On most of the samples that I made, I used French Val laces and pin stitched the lace to the dresses. However, when I got to the size 4, I wanted to try something different. For that dress, I used a very lightweight poly/cotton piqué fabric that I purchased in Prague a few years ago. I combined it with Swiss trims and loved how it turned out. It’s a little more casual than the other heirloom versions that I had done.

Don’t you love it with the Swiss trims!!! So very summery!!! I even added 2 pockets to this dress, which I then included in the pattern.

I can see this dress in so many different variations – fabrics, trims, etc. I used larger tucks for this dress, though I’m not sure that they show up well in the picture.

The flat front version is also so pretty! I can see this with all kinds of embellishment – wouldn’t a monogram be perfect!!! A shadow work monogram would be gorgeous! I did a simple lace shaping on the front of the one that I made. I’m still considering adding some embroidery. This dress features the sweetheart neckline!


Maybe you have someone that would look so sweet in this dress!!! I have begun a sew-along of the dress on my YouTube channel. Please consider joining the fun! I am looking forward to seeing many beautiful versions of this sweet dress!!!

I hope the new year has included some enjoyable stitching for you!!!


Sewing For Preemies

I sew quite frequently for preemie babies and because of that, I’ve created a number of preemie patterns which I sell in my Etsy shop (Kathysheirloomshop). You can click on the shop name and it will take you to my shop.

Recently I was contacted and asked about even smaller size preemie daygowns. I currently have my Prince/Princess Preemie Pattern available for a 4 – 5 lb. preemie.

By adding length to this top (I believe I added 8″ to the bottom of the 4 – 5 lb. size), it becomes a daygown rather than a diaper shirt.

The little bit of hand embroidery adds such a sweet touch to the gown and bonnet!

The person that had contacted me felt that a gown smaller than the 4 – 5 lb. size might be needed. Challenge accepted! LOL! I worked at making a smaller size pattern. I ended up with a 3 – 4 lb. size pattern. I did a test sew of the pattern and it worked out just as I expected. However, because the diaper shirt/gown is completely lined, the sleeves are sewn in last, meaning “in the round”. Sewing the sleeves into this tiny armhole opening was quite the challenge!!! I could only stitch about 5 – 6 stitches, then would have to reposition and repeat. 😱 I also ended up hand basting the sleeve into the armhole opening. It was just to fiddly to have to deal with pins while trying to stitch the sleeve in. 😳

I tried it on a 15″ baby doll “model”. This does make a sweet doll pattern as well!

Because of the difficulty/challenge to sew in the sleeves into the tiny armholes, I have decided to offer this as a free download. I was not prepared for the multitude of questions from buyers regarding the sleeve stitching! You cannot imagine how many messages I get as a seller!!! LOL! So, be aware, the tiny sleeves ARE a challenge, but they can be sewn with a LOT of patience!!!

The download is ONLY the pattern pieces, NO INSTRUCTIONS for sewing are included. If you have purchased the preemie pattern or the pattern for sizes NB – 12 mo., you can follow those instructions. If you want/need sewing instructions and have not purchased one of the patterns, you will need to purchase one of them in order to have sewing instructions.

If you want the diaper shirt to be daygown length, add 6″ to the bottom of the shirt.

As always, I still recommend soft fabrics (batiste, lawn, etc.) and if you choose to use a print, make sure it is a tiny print so that it doesn’t overwhelm the baby (or doll).

Happy Stitching!!!


Happy New Year – a gift for you

I’ve sadly neglected my blog. That said, I have been busy sewing, designing and such. I hope to do a better job posting in this year to come. 😊

Today I was contacted by someone that was going to make my Annalise top and she wanted to find the heart design that she had seen somewhere – probably Pinterest. It turns out that this was something that I designed MANY years ago when I used to make and sell custom garments on Ebay.

I designed the heart smocking to match the fabric on the pants, which was a crooked heart. Isn’t she the cutest model!!! I’m sure that she’s in college by now!

I had to do a bit of hunting to find the design. Thankfully I had saved the pencil graph of the heart. With that, as well as the pictures to go on, I graphed out the heart design on the computer and wanted to offer it to my followers so that it can be smocked on a Valentine outfit for this year!!! I have graphed out the smocking design that fits perfectly on the Annalise top (available in my Etsy shop – just click on the name and it will bring you there) as well as offering it in a regular yoke design.

This is a relatively simple smocking design and suitable for someone that has mastered reading the picture smocking graphs


hope that you will enjoy making a cute outfit using one of these smocking designs! The single design is perfect for a small area to smock while the expanded version will work well on any yoke dress!

May God bless you and keep you in this New Year! Happy stitching!!!


SPAGHETTI BIAS – shaping and application

The bias has been prepared (see previous post) and the dress marked and is ready for the bias shaping and application. Start the application process at the center back of the dress. Using glass head pins, pin the bias to the skirt following the scallop shape and then shaping the loop area (see video). As you pin around the skirt, ensure that the outside edges of the bias are flat and smooth against the fabric.

The inside of the loops will need to be pulled in such that the bulk is distributed evenly. Thread a needle with a contrast thread and do a running stitch around the inside of the loop. Pull the thread so that the inside loop gathers in and will sit flat against the fabric. Then pin to secure.

When the beginning point is reached, cut off the excess spaghetti bias and tuck the cut end underneath the spaghetti bias loop to hide the cut ends (see video). With all the bias pinned in place, get the washable glue and glue underneath the bias to secure. Finger press the bias to the glue to secure. Carefully work around the skirt. To dry the glue more quickly, it can be pressed from the inside of the skirt using NO STEAM – only the dry iron.

Once the glue is dry, the bias is ready to stitch to the skirt. Decide if a decorative stitch will be used (blanket stitch, etc.) or if it will be straight stitched. Use 60 wt. thread, size 70 needle and an open toed foot. If using the blanket stitch, a 2.5 stitch length and a 1.0 – 1.5 stitch length is recommended.

Cut strips of Sulky Super Solvy and pin behind the area that will be stitched. Stitch around the inside and outside of the spaghetti bias with the stitch desired. Then soak the dress in cold water to remove any blue wash-out marker as well as the stabilizer and allow to dry.

The video showing the process can be viewed on YouTube. This technique can be used on so many different projects – pillowcases, tea towels, etc. Have fun trying this on your next project!

Happy Stitching,


Disclosure: The recommended products contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting me when you shop! These are my opinions and are not representative of the companies that create these products. These are the products I use and have gotten great results with. I would never recommend poor quality products.

SPAGHETTI BIAS – use, design & how to make spaghetti bias

Spaghetti bias is a great way to jazz up an outfit with very little expense. I’ll be sharing how to use spaghetti bias, how to create a design for a hem application as well as how to make your own spaghetti bias.

The above examples are my Bee-Utiful Pinafore pattern, available in my Etsy shop. It shows creative uses of spaghetti bias around the hem of the pinafore as well as using it as a leaf in the red/white pinafore.

Spaghetti bias was used above this hemline to create vines and leaves.

In the Suzette pattern, the spaghetti bias was used instead of a sleeve.

It can also be used to make bows as shown in the Sweet Cheeks Diaper Cover pattern.

The demonstration on the video uses the Ready To Smock Bishop pattern dress.

To create the design for the hem, you will need to determine what sort of design is desired as well as how many repeats of the design will be done. Find the center front and center back of the skirt and mark with a blue wash-out marker. Then place the CF and CB on top of each other to find the side seams and mark them. You can view my fold and mark process on the YouTube video.

Create a template using paper, pencil and a curved ruler and draw in the type of curve desired. Cut out the curve and then place on top of the skirt and mark each of the scallop designs.

To create bias strips, find the exact bias on the fabric (45º angle from the selvages) and use a rotary cutter, ruler and mat to cut 1-1/8″ strips of bias. Join strips together to get the length needed to go around the skirt.

After strips are joined together, fold the strips with right sides together and sew along the length of the bias with an ACCURATE 1/4″ seam allowance using regular (40 wt.) all purpose sewing thread.

Using the Fasturn tool (see video for visual instructions) turn the spaghetti bias right side out. Let it rest for a bit to allow the bias to relax – it was stretched a bit while turning. Then lightly steam ensuring that the seam side is rolled slightly to one side of the bias. If the bias will be used only in a straight fashion, you can give it a hard press using press bars.

Part 2 for how to apply the bias strips will be coming soon!


Disclosure: The recommended products contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting me when you shop! These are my opinions and are not representative of the companies that create these products. These are the products I use and have gotten great results with. I would never recommend poor quality products.

Gifts For The Seamstress – Notions

This is the last in my series of Gifts For The Seamstress. The first was on pressing aides, the second was on scissors & rulers and this one focuses on the smaller necessary notions.

A seamstress always needs a variety of marking tools. A chalk wheel is an efficient way to mark lines on the fabric. The chalk comes in white or blue and refills of the chalk dust can be purchased when it runs out.

Of course, the traditional tailor’s chalk can also be used to mark with. It comes in a variety of colors. Both the chalk from the chalk wheel as well as the tailor’s chalk will wear off eventually as the fabric is being handled.

Other marking tools, which I tend to prefer, are the wash-out markers. I most frequently use the fine tip blue wash-out marker. I also use the air-erasable marker if I know that I will finish my project the same day. That marker tends to disappear within 24 hours, so speed is necessary. These can be purchased as a combination maker as well with each end being the different tip. If you are working with dark fabrics, a white marker is available.

Other marking tools include the Sew Line marker, Stadetler non-permanent lumocolor markers (I have only found these at art supply companies) as well as the traditional pencil markers.

Then there are the piping rulers. Darr makes a nice ruler, though it is short compared to others. Ten Sisters makes a longer one, which is preferred by most.

Washable Glue is an invaluable tool to have in the sewing room. I use this for so many different things – securing rickrack/piping/trim prior to sewing, etc. Sewline makes a nice glue pen which creates a nice, fine line of glue. Roxanne’s Glue Baste is a favorite of mine. It also creates a nice line or even dots of glue. Both Clover and Dritz make a washable glue stick.

Some less known tools include the Dritz Hem Gauge, which works fabulously for pressing up a hem on a garment, curtains, etc. Fray Check comes in handy for stopping ribbons or buttonhole ends from fraying. The Simflex Buttonhole Marker/Gauge is a MUST HAVE for all sewing rooms. It will accurately mark buttonholes on a blouse, dress, etc. The Hera Marker will aide greatly in pushing out sewn scallops. An Awl is also a very valuable tool, particularly for anyone that hand-embroiders, although it is helpful for guiding tricky sewing under the foot of the machine as well.

Any seamstress can use new sewing machine needles!!! If you aren’t sure of any other of the tools mentioned, you can’t go wrong with good needles!

I hope that these suggestions have been helpful! If you prefer to watch the YouTube video where you can see all of these different products, you can do that as well.

You should have plenty of ideas for gift-giving for the seamstress in your life now! Have fun shopping!!!


Disclosure: The recommended products contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting me when you shop! These are my opinions and are not representative of the companies that create these products. These are the products I use and have gotten great results with. I would never recommend poor quality products.

Gifts For The Seamstress – Scissors & Rulers!!!

The ultimate seamstress gift is a great pair of scissors. Gingher scissors are among my favorite and I have a nice collection of them – everything from the 8″ dressmaker shears to the 4″ designer embroidery scissors. The nice thing about the Gingher scissors is their customer service. I’ve had some of these scissors for many, many years, and have sent them back to Ginger regularly for service. Any Gingher scissors can be sent back to Gingher in Greensboro, NC along with a check for $15 and they will sharpen, oil & service them and they will be returned about a week later as good as new! (You can click on any of the links below to view the products mentioned.) Of course, the video presentation with explanations can be seen on YouTube!

An 8″ pair of dressmaker shears is the most frequently used scissors. These are also available as left hand scissors.

If cutting has become difficult due to weaker hands or constant use, the 8″ spring action shears are a great choice.

7″ scissors sit next to my sewing machine, though some prefer to use the nippers next to their machines. Both work well.

Pinking shears aren’t a necessity, but they do come in handy for using as a seam finish for seams inside a wool jacket or something similar when you don’t want to overcast.

The tiny snips are wonderful for hanging around your neck for traveling – they are readily accessible.

The 4″ kindergarten scissors are also great for travel or for keeping in your lap while working on a project. The blunt ends are a much better choice than the embroidery scissors as they won’t pick you. I also use these exclusively for trimming fabric from behind lace. The blunt ends work well because you don’t end up with a pointed scissors end inadvertently catching a hole of the lace and cutting it accidentally.

A particularly lovely gift of scissors would be one from one of the designer scissors series that Gingher comes out with from time to time. The green print set is called “Sara” and I have the 8″ dressmaker shears as well as the 4″ embroidery shears. I also have the 5″ “Tessa” scissors. The designer series come out as a limited edition collection from time to time.

The other scissors that I really like is the Dovo scissors. These scissors have teeny, tiny serrated blades that grip the fabric so that it doesn’t slide away. My favorite set is the set of 3 gold-plated embroidery scissors (far left) that my husband gave me. ❤️ These are generally available at specialty heirloom shops.

Along with scissors, rotary cutters and self-healing mats are a great addition to the sewing room. I use both scissors as well as rotary cutters, depending on the project and my mood at the time. These also come in a variety of sizes. The smaller mats work well for small projects and for travel while a larger mat is wonderful to use on top of a cutting table. Mine is 36″ x 72″.

Rulers and measuring tapes are a necessity for any seamstress. Having a basic measuring tape in the sewing room, and then a retractable tape to carry around in my purse is always best. Then rulers, which there are a plethora to choose from, are wonderful to have as well. Heavier rulers like the 6″ x 24″ size work well to use with the rotary cutters. A lighter weight 2″ x 18″ ruler with a grid is also a necessity for me. Quilters will use a wider variety of rulers than someone that sews clothing.

French curve rulers and seam allowance rulers (far right) are wonderful for anyone doing a lot of changes to patterns or someone delving into pattern drafting.

Magnetic pin cushions have to be one of the best inventions ever!!! I have several in my sewing room – one next to the sewing machine, one on my cutting table, one next to my iron, etc. I like the ones with the cover because they work so well for traveling – even from room to room. Of course, spilled pins are a thing of the past with these! I also use glass head pins and not the pins that come with the cushions. You can iron over a glass head pin, but ironing over a pin with a plastic head can melt the plastic and cause havoc with a project.

Unfortunately, seam rippers are a necessity in the sewing room for those mistakes that happen from time to time. The Clover one is a brand that has a nice shape and sharp cutter. A seam ripper with a magnifier works well for those that need a little help seeing the tiny stitches.

If buying sewing notions for the seamstress is totally out of your comfort zone, hand creams are always a welcome choice. Keeping the hands soft is imperative so that fragile fabrics won’t snag on hang nails or callouses. I like to use Camille Beckman’s Glycerine Therapy at night and then use the Nutrogena Hand Cream throughout the day, supplementing with Earth Theraputics Cuticle and Nail cream as needed.

I hope that this has provided you with plenty of gift ideas for the seamstress in your life. You will never go wrong purchasing a quality item that will be well loved and used!!!


Disclosure: The recommended products contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting me when you shop! These are my opinions and are not representative of the companies that create these products. These are the products I use and have gotten great results with. I would never recommend poor quality products.