The bias has been prepared (see previous post) and the dress marked and is ready for the bias shaping and application. Start the application process at the center back of the dress. Using glass head pins, pin the bias to the skirt following the scallop shape and then shaping the loop area (see video). As you pin around the skirt, ensure that the outside edges of the bias are flat and smooth against the fabric.
The inside of the loops will need to be pulled in such that the bulk is distributed evenly. Thread a needle with a contrast thread and do a running stitch around the inside of the loop. Pull the thread so that the inside loop gathers in and will sit flat against the fabric. Then pin to secure.
When the beginning point is reached, cut off the excess spaghetti bias and tuck the cut end underneath the spaghetti bias loop to hide the cut ends (see video). With all the bias pinned in place, get the washable glue and glue underneath the bias to secure. Finger press the bias to the glue to secure. Carefully work around the skirt. To dry the glue more quickly, it can be pressed from the inside of the skirt using NO STEAM – only the dry iron.
Once the glue is dry, the bias is ready to stitch to the skirt. Decide if a decorative stitch will be used (blanket stitch, etc.) or if it will be straight stitched. Use 60 wt. thread, size 70 needle and an open toed foot. If using the blanket stitch, a 2.5 stitch length and a 1.0 – 1.5 stitch length is recommended.
Cut strips of Sulky Super Solvy and pin behind the area that will be stitched. Stitch around the inside and outside of the spaghetti bias with the stitch desired. Then soak the dress in cold water to remove any blue wash-out marker as well as the stabilizer and allow to dry.
The video showing the process can be viewed on YouTube. This technique can be used on so many different projects – pillowcases, tea towels, etc. Have fun trying this on your next project!
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